by Administrator
11. August 2008 05:50
Spectator's cover article this month focuses on the steady decline of wine service in American restaurants. As anyone who has ever purchased a bottle while dining out knows, the restaurants are making well over top dollar for their wine (I have seen bottles that I sell for $35 on wine lists for as much as $190). Therefore, it is reasonable to assume that they would take great care in the storage, presentation, and pouring of such a luxury, I mean lets be honest... it's not uncommon to have the wine on your bill cost more than your food!
Sadly however, this is simply not the case. Lets just look at the basics. Storage, for example, is a huge component of proper wine service. Most restaurants sadly keep their white wine in the same cooler as their beer. This is fine for those inexpensive bottles meant to be served ultra cold. However, for a nice bottle of white Burgundy or a great German Riesling, this is a tragedy. Serving such a subtle wine at that temperature masks all of its layers and complexity, and will show much more poorly than if served about 10 degrees warmer. Another major area of concern is whether or not the more expensive bottles are stored properly. While most restaurants say that all of their library wine is stored in the "cellar", you would be quite surprised how few actual cellars exist. For some, this simply means "a room in which we keep our wine". It is neither temperature controlled, nor is it properly maintained. It baffles me how many establishments invest in collector level gems, but store them in humid closets.
Then of course, there is the actual wine service. Oh boy, I could write a book on this. For those of us lucky enough to have been served by an actual sommelier, who takes great care in the presentation and decanting of a bottle regardless of its cost, it really is something to behold. However, it is extremely expensive to employ a talented sommelier, and even then rare to find one who does the actual competition level of service, and therefore I almost never expect this level of care to be taken at most restaurants. I do expect however to not have water spots on my glass ware. I also expect that my server be properly trained in how to open and pour a bottle. Again, I don't think I am asking to much here. All I am asking is that my white tablecloth not be covered in wine after the initial pour. I am asking that you let me verify that it is the correct vintage. I am asking that you fill my companions' glasses before you fill mine. If I order a nice bottle of red wine, please don't bring me four white wine glasses, and please oh please know the status of your wine list before you begin service for the evening. One of my least favorite things is carefully selecting a wine, ordering it, and then finding out that the restaurant is out of it. Grrr...
There, I feel better! So tell me, any recent service debacles you would like to share?
Cheers!
