by Administrator
24. October 2008 05:38
Spectator's much anticipated California Cabernet issue hit the shelves just recently, with some surprises, some bigger surprises, and a lot of Jame Laube rhetoric. When it comes to California Cab I tend to side more with Stephen Tanzer, but mostly myself. One thing was clear about James Laube's assessment: He really really likes pretty much anything sourced from Andy Beckstoffer's vineyards, particularly the To-Kalon site, but how can you not? I will definitely agree with him here. Although these tend to command the highest prices, they really are a class among themselves. The 89 acre parcel in Napa Valley's Oakville AVA produces fruit for some of California's most fabled producers. Paul Hobbs, Harlan, Bounty Hunter and Plumpjack are among the elite few lucky enough to be allocated fruit from this site. So it was no shocker that most of these wines received some hefty Laube style love.
Overall, I actually agree with JL. 2005 has turned into a nice surprise for most California Cabs. It was a high production year, that really didn't see a reduction in quality. Laube scored it a 93 for Napa, which I am on board with. Chappellet's Pritchard hill was awarded a 96, which is a steal at 129.99 (and is without question the best Chappellet I have ever tasted). Almost 140 wines were rated between 90-95 points, which is a pretty good average. The 2004s will probably turn out to mature a bit quicker, but those seeking longevity will be better invested in the 05s.
That being said, he pretty much panned Sonoma. Which I disagree with. Sonoma got blasted by a soggy winter, and had an early ripening as well, with a lot of nervous growers watching the sky come September. The surprise ending produced some very balanced wines. No real "tour de force" bottlings, but still some great structure and elegance from the good growers. I'd give 2005 Sonoma a comfy 88.
Looking ahead, 2006 and 2007 are shaping up fairly well indeed, with 2008 being something entirely unexpected. Guess we'll just have to wait and see.
Cin Cin
