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indianapolis wine blog
11/13/2008 - Top 100 and Beaujolais Nouveau? It must be November!
Every November, two things happen in the wine world that carry a significant amount of fanfaire. The first is the release of Beaujolais Nouveau (which is always on the third Thursday of the month). This light, fruity "drink now" red wine hails from the Burgundy region of france and is produced from the Gamay grape using a method known as "carbonic maceration". I'll save you the uber-geek explanation and just tell you that its a process of winemaking designed to produce young wines that are fruit forward, light on tannins and ready to drink at the time of release. The downside to this is of course that they do not last long on a shelf . . . but then again no wine lasts very long on mine. Beaujolais Nouveau was originally created to be served at the annual end of harvest festival in Burgundy, but has since grown into an international phenomenon, and is probably one of the most greatly anticipated wine release dates in the world.
The second major wine event of November, is of course the release of the annual Wine Spectator "Top 100" list. For those who are unaware, Wine Spectator's editors go back through all the wines they have reviewed over the past year and rank the 100 best, with one wine being awarded the coveted "Wine of the Year" title. I don't always agree with their rankings, but hey, that's wine! Thus far they have only told us what wines 1-10 are . . . and the winner of wine of the year is: Casa Lapostolle "Clos Apalta" 2005! Which is funny, as this wine was open at our Pink Ribbon tasting we held at the Montage last night! People probably didn't even realize they were drinking Wine Spectator's top pick of 2008! It's a gorgeous Carmenere based CHilean red that is always stellar. To be honest though, I actually like the 2004 a bit more, but that's just me. Or is it?
Cin Cin!
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10/24/2008 - 2005 California Cabernet
Spectator's much anticipated California Cabernet issue hit the shelves just recently, with some surprises, some bigger surprises, and a lot of Jame Laube rhetoric. When it comes to California Cab I tend to side more with Stephen Tanzer, but mostly myself. One thing was clear about James Laube's assessment: He really really likes pretty much anything sourced from Andy Beckstoffer's vineyards, particularly the To-Kalon site, but how can you not? I will definitely agree with him here. Although these tend to command the highest prices, they really are a class among themselves. The 89 acre parcel in Napa Valley's Oakville AVA produces fruit for some of California's most fabled producers. Paul Hobbs, Harlan, Bounty Hunter and Plumpjack are among the elite few lucky enough to be allocated fruit from this site. So it was no shocker that most of these wines received some hefty Laube style love.
Overall, I actually agree with JL. 2005 has turned into a nice surprise for most California Cabs. It was a high production year, that really didn't see a reduction in quality. Laube scored it a 93 for Napa, which I am on board with. Chappellet's Pritchard hill was awarded a 96, which is a steal at 129.99 (and is without question the best Chappellet I have ever tasted). Almost 140 wines were rated between 90-95 points, which is a pretty good average. The 2004s will probably turn out to mature a bit quicker, but those seeking longevity will be better invested in the 05s.
That being said, he pretty much panned Sonoma. Which I disagree with. Sonoma got blasted by a soggy winter, and had an early ripening as well, with a lot of nervous growers watching the sky come September. The surprise ending produced some very balanced wines. No real "tour de force" bottlings, but still some great structure and elegance from the good growers. I'd give 2005 Sonoma a comfy 88.
Looking ahead, 2006 and 2007 are shaping up fairly well indeed, with 2008 being something entirely unexpected. Guess we'll just have to wait and see.
Cin Cin
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10/15/2008 - Corks vs. Screw Caps
To cork or not to cork, that is the question. There are many facets to this particularly heated debate in the wine industry: Tradition, cost, environmental issues, quality, longevity etc. Wine has been sealed by cork for hundreds of years, and it would appear that it has done a fairly good job the standpoint of a wine drinker. However from a winemaker’s point of view, cork can provide some serious challenges that screw caps can alleviate.
One of the main issues regarding the age old method is cork’s substantial failure rate, about 7%, which in almost any other industry (especially in perishables) would be completely unacceptable. Corks are made from the bark of the cork oak tree, and the quality of cork closures (and prices) can very greatly. During production however, the cork becomes susceptible to a nasty little compound called 2,4,6-trichloroanisole (or TCA). This will cause the wine it protects to smell musty and spoiled (almost like mildew) and makes the wine undrinkable. High quality cork however is not only getting more expensive, it is getting tougher to come by as the demand increases, so fantastic wines with 20-30 year capabilities are being subject to sub-standard corks that crumble at 15. This being said, high quality cork has proven its ability to perfectly age the world’s great wines, and there is still zero evidence of a screw cap providing the kind of gentle nurturing a fragile wine requires over time.
Another argument for corks is the environmental impact of screw caps. Stelvin closures require not only the mining and smelting of Bauxite (which releases a lot of greenhouse gasses into the atmosphere), but they are also neither biodegradable, nor renewable: Both of which cork most certainly is. However, it’s very difficult to ignore the fact that on young wines, or rather those that are meant to be consumed before 10 years (as 95% of the wine on earth is), screw caps not only almost guarantee a wines viability, but tend to keep the price down.
What about tradition and atmosphere? There is certainly something to be said for the tableside presentation of a wine, and something is definitely lost when your sommelier comes over and unscrews your carefully selected bottle like so many soft drinks. The proper opening of a bottle has always been an art form, and a time tested pleasure, like unwrapping a Christmas present.
So then, what do I think? I don’t think there is any “right” answer. I think cork producers need to get on the ball and start seriously increasing the quality of their product (especially since it is such a MAJOR export for Portugal, where 50% of the world’s cork is produced). I think there are merits and drawbacks to both. I think cheaper is not always better, and I think that this debate will rage for years. Now, tell me what you think!
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10/6/2008 - Let's Debunk!
Wine can be extremely confusing. This is no great secret. With over ten thousand grape types being grown in more than 70 countries, it comes as no surprise that many are so intimidated by the subject. Even among the world's experts there are still many vague and uncertain answers. Ancient truths we held high are dispelled every day by DNA fingerprinting and new technologies, but I suppose such is the price of discovery! With so much information and innovation spanning so many languages, centuries and cultures, it is only inevitable that a few basic truths manage to become rather widely misinterpreted over time. Here are a couple I will attempt to clear up for you.
1.) All Wine is Meant to Age.
This is simply false, although many (if not most) believe it to be the case. The vast majority of wine (90+%) is not meant to age much longer than 5 years after release, and most of that will not actually improve with time. A small percentage of wine can sit 5-12 years and improve, while a minute portion of the world's wine can age for decades. Typically the most expensive bottles, examples of these are: Bordeaux Premier Crus, Burgundy Grand Crus, a small number of California Cabernet Sauvignon and Meritage, Some Italian Super Tuscans, high end Australian Shiraz and a select few Spanish gems. So what are you waiting for? Start popping bottles!
2.) I'm allergic to sulfites! They give me headaches!
This is easily the most common misguided comment I hear about wine. The fact is sulfites (or sulfur dioxide) have never been proven to cause headaches. Several Harvard studies have been done on the subject and no correlation has ever been made. While sulfite sensitivity is an actual allergy (that less than 1% of the population suffers from), true sufferers of this experience allergic reactions, not headaches. A good example of this is that when people typically complain of this malady, they tell me that they cannot drink RED wine because of it, and have to drink white instead. I have always found that odd, as white wines almost always contain more added sulfites than red wine. Remember, don't confuse a red wine headache (RWH) with the headache that comes six hours later. . . that's called a hangover!
I hope this shines a little light in a couple foggy areas for you! If you ever have any questions, I'm only a click away. Cin Cin!
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9/29/2008 - The value factor.
Lets face it, the bailout failed, and investors took the hit. Every customer that came in today looked visibly distressed. It's hard as a retailer and wine guy to not think about what my responsibility is in all of this. Wine is a great joy for many people. It is a way of life for some of us, and a luxury that I simply will not do without. I can lose myself in a great glass of red, and right now want nothing more than to slip gently into a dark purple shiraz induced euphoria and remind myself that thinkgs could be far worse.
It's hard not to take stock (pun intended) at times like this. What's really important? Health, family etc. That being said, lets just be honest, money IS important... so yes, it's time to cinch up the belts a bit. Ah, but do not fret my friends! I can show you HUNDREDS of wines under $20, under $15, and yes even under 10 dollars that are just wonderful. That will let you continue your wine loving without demolishing your discretionary spending.
So come in and see me, we'll taste and toast and be merry. Heck, someone has to!
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9/22/2008 - Holiday Events
Right now we're neck deep in holiday marketing plans. This particular season we have really pulled out all the stops when it comes to events. We've got things going on for the entire week of halloween. Cognac and Scotch seminars will be held, Flora Springs and Clarendon Hills dinners are in the works, and the Holiday Extravaganza and store anniversary will be downright fantastic.
I am curious as to what you think about the events however. What brings you out? Is it wine tastings? Dinners? Classes? Meet & greet opportunities with winemakers? What is compelling for you? I know with fuel prices the way they are, and the economy not exactly swelling with optimism, it gets tougher to make the argument for luxuries these days. So help me sharpen our events calender, and fill me in on what inspires you!
Cheers
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9/8/2008 - The wine industry feels the choke of fuel costs.
Every one of us is feeling the pressure of rising fuel costs. Wineries are no exception. Even things like petroleum based fertilizers have almost doubled in price. This immediately important issue will result in one of two things: The consumers absorbing the cost, or the wineries absorbing the cost. Personally, I'm all for the latter. Fortunately, the wineries seem to be as well. They are having to get extremely creative. Using new electric ATVs to get around the vineyards, or installing solar panels have been a couple of popular cost cutting alternatives. Another idea growing in popularity is decreasing the weight of the actual bottles, causing less strain on the delivery trucks. Some major wine companies are also requiring their executive level offices to either carpool or (gasp!) take the bus to board meetings.
I personally have felt the hit as well. I recently sold my fighter jet to the Air Force for pennies on the dollar. Which of course means I can no longer justifiably wear my aviator sunglasses, so needless to say, I'm extremely distraught. Tell me, what changes have you had to make?
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8/29/2008 - Hollywood Juice
Okay, so I have just returned from my outing to see the recently released "Bottle Shock". For those who are unaware, it's a movie based |
